Brigantessa

East Passyunk Avenue is one of the most concentrated streets for eating and drinking in Philadelphia, and Brigantessa is among its finest. The osteria opened in 2014 with a focus on southern Italian cuisine and a wine list built around the same region. A decade later, the bar programme has expanded considerably while keeping its identity intact.

The aperitivo hour is the best entry point. Between 5pm and 7pm, the Campari-based spritzes come at slightly reduced prices, and the bar fills with a neighborhood crowd that understands how this particular ritual is supposed to work. You sit, you drink slowly, you eat a few things off the small plates menu. The timing is Italian in the best sense.

The natural wine list is serious. The focus is southern Italy — Campania, Calabria, Puglia, Sicily — with additions from Sardinia and a few French selections. The staff can navigate it fluently, and are not shy about steering you toward something less obvious if you express openness. Philadelphia's date night scene has several excellent wine bars, but Brigantessa sits at the top of that list for the combination of food, wine, and neighbourhood character.

For anyone building a tour of East Passyunk's bars, this is the one that requires the longest visit. The cocktail list has improved steadily and now includes a well-made Negroni and a rotating seasonal aperitivo. The food is the reason many people stay for dinner without having planned to.