Paulaner Brauhaus

Craft Beer Isarvorstadt $$

The Paulaner Brauhaus stands on the corner of Kapuzinerplatz at number 5 in Munich's Isarvorstadt, a working brewpub that brews its beer on site and runs an 800-seat beer garden out the back.

The house traded as the Thomasbrau until the 1928 merger with Paulaner, and the first Paulaner Brauhaus opened here in 1989, per the brewery's own history. Walk in the main entrance and the brew kettles sit on the immediate left, which tells you the beer is made where it is poured.

Who would love it: anyone after fresh, unfiltered house beer and a plate of Bavarian food without the tour-bus scale of the Hofbrauhaus. Who would not: anyone after a cocktail list, because this is a beer hall and the drink is more or less decided for you.

The building is large, with brew kettles by the door, a partitioned hall of long tables and the beer garden behind. BeerAdvocate notes the tap list stays short and house-made, a weissbier, a Franconian-style rotbier and an unfiltered zwicklbier, the last the one to order fresh.

Kapuzinerplatz sits in the Isarvorstadt south of the centre, a residential quarter away from the old-town crowds. The Goetheplatz stop on the U3 and U6 and Poccistrasse nearby put it within an easy ride of the Hauptbahnhof, which keeps it a locals' hall as much as a visitors' one.

The move is a half-litre of the unfiltered zwicklbier and a Bavarian plate, with the kitchen running the standards from Schweinsbraten to Obatzda. Prices sit below the tourist halls of the old town, and the garden is the seat to ask for in summer. Skip looking for anything but beer, because the three house brews are the list.

The crowd is Munich locals on a weeknight and a fuller mix at weekends, with the garden filling fast on the first warm days. The hall stays open until 1am while the garden runs from 10am to 11pm, which gives it a longer night than most beer gardens.

Reviewers on Yelp, across nearly 100 entries, return to the freshness of the house beer and the value next to the old-town halls. The recurring gripe is slow service when a coach party lands, which the self-service garden sidesteps.

Best time to go is a warm evening in the garden under the chestnuts, or a weeknight in the hall when the locals outnumber the visitors. Compare it with the giant Hofbrauhaus in the old town, which trades freshness for spectacle.

The on-site brewing is the distinction worth understanding. The Paulaner Brauhaus brand started here as a brewpub concept in 1989 and has since been franchised internationally, but the Kapuzinerplatz original is the one that brews behind the bar rather than trucking beer in. The unfiltered zwicklbier is the clearest example, a beer that does not travel well and is best drunk in the room where it is made.

The food and the garden carry the rest. The kitchen runs the full Bavarian card, from roast pork and dumplings to Obatzda and pretzels, portioned for a table working through several beers. The 800-seat garden behind the building is the summer draw, shaded and quieter than the old-town halls, and it is where regulars steer visitors on a warm evening.

The brewing setup is part of the room rather than hidden in a back unit, with the copper kettles in view as you enter, and the staff will point out which of the three house beers is freshest that week. For a group, the long shared tables make it easy to order a spread of plates and a round of half-litres and settle in for the evening.

For more of the city's beer, see our craft beer bars in Munich guide and the global craft beer list, or browse the wider Munich bar guide.

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