The Albion sits on Thornhill Road, a Georgian terrace in the Barnsbury pocket of Islington, away from the Upper Street crowds. The wisteria-covered front is the giveaway, and behind it is a courtyard garden of more than 450 square metres that ranks among the prettiest in north London. The Guardian, the Observer, and the Independent have all praised the kitchen over the years.
This is a gastropub that earns the label. It works as a summer garden destination, a Sunday lunch institution, and a fireside winter local. Come for the garden in bloom, the roast, or a long lunch. Skip it if you want a cheap quick pint, because the prices match the postcode and the ambition.