12th arrondissement, Paris 75012
Right across from the station, so it fills around train times. Aim for the early evening lull to land a seat at the wooden counter.
A 1928 Beer Bar Across From the Trains
L'Express de Lyon sits directly opposite Gare de Lyon at 1 Rue de Lyon, in the 12th arrondissement. It has poured here since 1928, and the bar is now run by two brothers who are the fourth generation of the same family behind the counter. That continuity shows in the room, all worn wood and comfortable armchairs rather than anything designed last year.
This is a beer bar for travellers killing time before a train and locals who want fifteen taps without ceremony. Beer writers list it on platforms like BeerAdvocate for the range, and Yelp files it under sports bars for the screens. If you want a craft cocktail program, this is not the room. If you want a good pour opposite the station, it is one of the most useful addresses in the 12th.
The setting is a traditional French cafe bar that has aged into its fittings. A long wooden counter runs the room, with armchairs and a calm, lived in feel that regulars on Tripadvisor single out as the draw. Two screens carry sport, which is why it doubles as a match day stop for anyone arriving or leaving by train. It is comfortable rather than styled, and that is the point.
Beer is the headline. The bar pours fifteen taps with a rotating selection alongside bottles, and beer focused guides such as Planete Houblon and BeerAdvocate cover it for that range rather than for cocktails. Order from the taps, ask what is fresh, and pair it with the simple bar food the kitchen runs through the day. Prices sit in fair neighbourhood territory for the 12th rather than tourist trap markup, even with the station next door.
A mix that turns over with the timetable. Commuters and travellers cycle through around train times, while a regular local base holds the counter the rest of the day. The two screens pull a sports crowd when there is a match on. The mood stays easy and unhurried, the kind of place where a quick pre train beer turns into two.
- A reliable pour opposite Gare de Lyon before or after a train
- Beer drinkers who want fifteen taps without any fuss
- Avoid if you came for cocktails or a designed, of the moment room
For more of the Paris beer and bar scene, try La Fine Mousse in Paris for a craft beer benchmark, Brasserie BAPBAP in Paris for a working city brewery taproom, and Harry's New York Bar in Paris for an old school institution.
Plan more stops with our Paris craft beer hub and the best bars in Paris list. Looking for a pour closer to home? Try craft beer bars near me.
Sources: Yelp (Express de Lyon, 1 Rue de Lyon, n=53 reviews); BeerAdvocate (Express de Lyon, Paris); Planete Houblon; Tripadvisor (L'Express de Lyon); Mapstr and FANZO listings. The 1928 founding, the fourth generation family ownership, the fifteen taps, the two screens, the wooden counter and the opening hours are confirmed against the listings above.