Le Grand Bain

Le Grand Bain sits at 14 rue Denoyez in Belleville, the street-art alley just off rue de Belleville, and Paris by Mouth files it under both natural wine and open-late, which is the short version of why it matters. It is the room from Ed Delling-Williams, the chef behind Au Passage, serving small plates with a natural list in a converted industrial space.

Le Fooding calls it a cool, fun Paris restaurant that runs late and on Sundays, with one of the most complete small-plates menus in the capital. The kitchen, led by chef Emily Chia, keeps a strong vegetarian streak alongside the meat and fish, which is rarer than it should be in a Paris wine room.

The space is the look the neighbourhood made famous, exposed brick, concrete and a central island counter, with the open kitchen as the room's focus. Paris Update describes the energy as loud and convivial, a place to share plates and bottles rather than dine in hushed courses.

The natural wine list is the spine, poured by the glass and built to move through the changing plates. Because it opens at 7pm and runs to 11:30pm Wednesday through Sunday, closed Mondays and Tuesdays, it is a genuine late option in a quarter where kitchens close early.

Come for small plates and natural wine late, on a night when Belleville is the place to be. For more in the city, see our Paris wine bars guide, the best natural wine bars in Paris, and the best wine bars worldwide.

It opens at 7pm and runs to 11:30pm, so it works as a late dinner when the rest of the quarter has wound down. Weekend nights on rue Denoyez run loud and full.

Booking is worth it, since the room is not large and Belleville draws a crowd. A midweek evening is the calmer sit if you want to actually taste the list.