The Best Bars in Alfama

Memmo Alfama keeps a small red-tiled terrace off Travessa das Merceeiras with a clean view across Alfama's roofs to the river. Wine, port and cocktails come with the panorama. Best for a sunset drink above the quarter. Reserve, since the terrace is tiny.

Wine Bar do Castelo sits by the castle gate on Rua de Bartolomeu de Gusmao with more than 150 Portuguese wines by the glass. The owner pours and explains each region. Best for a guided Portuguese wine flight. Afternoons stay calm before the castle crowds leave.

Mesa de Frades is a tiny fado room on Rua dos Remedios set inside a tiled former chapel. Singers perform late, after the kitchen winds down. Best for intimate, after-dinner fado. Book ahead, since only a few tables fit.

Bartok runs a music and cocktail bar on Costa do Castelo with jazz and soul on the speakers and a terrace below the castle. The drinks stay simple and the mood low-key. Best for a relaxed late drink near the castle. Weeknights keep a local feel.

Tejo Bar is a candlelit bohemian room off Beco do Vigario where regulars pick up guitars and the wine pours cheap. There is no menu and no rush. Best for a loose, musical night with strangers. Go late and stay flexible.

Casa de Linhares fills a vaulted 16th-century cellar near the river with professional fado over dinner. The singers are among the city's best and the acoustics carry. Best for a grand, seated fado night. Reserve a table well ahead.