Aksorn

The format is set: an eight-course Thai tasting menu (THB 3,800 per person) drawn from David Thompson's research into Thai dishes from the 1940s through the 1970s. The bar programme runs alongside, with the option of a cocktail pairing (THB 1,800) or a wine pairing (THB 2,400) for each course. The cocktails are the strongest choice — they were designed for the food in a way wine pairings cannot match.

The cocktail pairings are deeply specific: a pandan-and-lime spritz for the early courses, a tamarind-honey-rye for the meat-centric middle, a coconut-cardamom dessert serve to close. Each drink is short, properly cold, and built to work with the spice level of the course it accompanies. The bartenders rotate the menu twice a year as the kitchen rotates its dishes.

Aksorn is a destination for a long, formal date night or a serious culinary occasion. Reservations open six weeks ahead and tend to be gone within a few days. Smart-casual dress, three hours minimum, one bill at the end. The bar accepts walk-ins for two seats at the counter (5pm to 7pm) if you want the cocktail programme without the kitchen.