Shonzui

· Sake Shonzui is on this list as a wine bar in the broadest sense — the room runs sake and wine on equal terms and treats both as drinking projects rather than menu accessories.

The Roppongi cellar holds roughly four hundred sakes and a hundred wines, the staff are among the most knowledgeable sake specialists in the country, and the flight format the bar pioneered remains the most useful teaching tool in Tokyo for anyone trying to understand sake against a wine reference. It ranks third because no other room in the city handles the sake-wine continuum this fluently, and because Shonzui's seriousness about both categories shaped how Tokyo wine bars built their hybrid programmes.

For the full ranking, see our editorial round-up of the 10 best wine bars in Tokyo, the broader Tokyo wine bars guide, and our category index of wine bars worldwide.