Editorial
Vienna drinks with centuries of practice behind it. Loos American Bar opened in 1908 in an Adolf Loos room that is now a protected interior, while Kleinod and Krypt show the city playing at world class today. The eight below run from the 1st district out to the 6th and 9th, with one rooftop and one wine room for balance.
Tom Callahan rates them on the room, the pour, and whether the prices are honest for what lands on the bar. Most run to 2am midweek and 4am at the weekend.
Loos American Bar is barely bigger than a railway compartment, a 1908 Adolf Loos room of marble, onyx, and mirrors that now counts as a protected interior. It seats around twenty, so you queue or you perch. The cocktails are classics done straight, no theatre, and it pours until 4am. Tom rates it for the most atmosphere per square metre in Vienna. Go late, order a Brandy Alexander, and mind your elbows.
Kleinod on Singerstrasse is modern Vienna's calling card, a polished cocktail bar that turns up on the World's 50 Best Europe lists. It opens daily from late afternoon to 4am, which is rare for a serious cocktail room. The drinks are precise and the staff know their stuff without the lecture. Expect to pay top Vienna prices for the privilege. Best earlier in the evening before the smart crowd fills it.
Krypt lives twelve metres under the 9th district in a restored 18th-century vaulted cellar that once held semi-legal jazz nights. The seven-metre marble and walnut bar anchors a striking, dimly lit room. It runs Tuesday to Saturday, later at weekends, and a reservation is wise. The cocktails match the setting for ambition. Tom rates it for a proper night out where the room does half the work.
Kruger's on Krugerstrasse claims the title of Vienna's oldest cocktail bar still standing, pouring since the 1920s. It is a clubby, low-lit room that trades on heritage rather than trends, open from 6pm until the small hours. The list runs deep on classics and the regulars know it well. Tom likes it as the old-school counterpoint to the city's newer rooms. Order a Manhattan and settle into a booth.
If Dogs Run Free sits on Gumpendorferstrasse in the 6th, a sharp little cocktail bar named after a Bob Dylan song. The ceiling of upside-down peaks is the talking point, but the drinks are the draw, from a straight Old Fashioned to lab experiments with matcha and gin. It runs a proper happy hour, which Tom always approves of. Open from 6pm, closed Sundays. Good value for the quality.
Das Loft tops the SO/ Vienna hotel on the 18th floor, a fully glazed bar with a coloured-glass ceiling and a clean sweep over the rooftops and the Danube Canal. The cocktails are skilled and the wine list serious, though you pay for the altitude. The dress code leans smart. Tom files it under worth it once for the view rather than a regular haunt. Book a window table near sunset.
Motto am Fluss perches on the Twin City Liner landing stage on the Danube Canal, a 1950s Venetian-styled room of black and white tiles. The ground-floor cafe turns into a bar with DJs after hours, while upstairs handles the formal dining. It opens early and runs to 2am, so it works from coffee to cocktails. Tom rates the canal-side terrace on a warm night. Grab a seat by the water.
Heunisch & Erben on Landstrasser Hauptstrasse is the one for wine drinkers, a bar and kitchen pouring around 120 wines by the glass. It earns nods from Michelin and the Falstaff guide for the cellar and the modern Austrian cooking. The list rewards the curious, with rare single bottles open at the bar. Tom rates it for a long evening of good glasses and small plates. Ask the staff to steer you.
Vienna drinks slowly and seriously. Loos American Bar is the architectural pilgrimage, Kleinod the modern technical reference, and Heunisch & Erben the wine drinker's room. Most cocktail bars run until 2am midweek and 4am at the weekend.
Tom Callahan covers pubs and proper drinking across the UK, Ireland, and Europe. He rates a bar on the room, the pour, and whether the prices are honest.