Tres por Cuatro

· Modern Tres por Cuatro in Malasaña is the bar that put Madrid on the European natural-wine map. The list runs heavy on the new Spanish natural producers — Sierra de Gredos, Canary Islands, Penedès, the wilder corners of Bierzo — with a French and Italian section that gives the Spanish bench context rather than competition.

The food is short and sharp, the room is tight, and the staff are unusually willing to argue with you about a bottle. It ranks sixth for the buying — no other Madrid wine bar took the new Spanish natural wave this seriously this early — and for the room, which remains one of the best in the city for a slow Wednesday evening.

For the full ranking, see our editorial round-up of the 10 best wine bars in Madrid, the broader Madrid wine bars guide, and our category index of wine bars worldwide.