Baar Fun Fun

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Montevideo's tango institution since 1895, where Carlos Gardel sang for an uvita and the tinned bar he leaned on still stands.

Baar Fun Fun opened on December 12, 1895, founded by Augusto Lopez with a drinks cart and a stutter that named the bar. The room started inside the old Mercado Central, moved three times, and now holds court at Ciudadela 1229 in Ciudad Vieja.

Carlos Gardel drank here in 1933, signed a photograph, and sang a capella leaning on the tinned bar that survives behind the counter. Montevideo's municipality has declared the bar a cultural heritage site, per the bar's own published history and the Uruguayan press.

Who would hate it? Anyone allergic to history with their drink. This is a monument that happens to pour.

Walls carry a century of photographs, signed portraits, and tango memorabilia; the old tin bar anchors the room like an altar. Univision profiled the bar as one of Montevideo's living institutions, and the small stage turns dinner into a milonga several nights a week. Expect close tables and zero minimalism.

La Uvita is the house creation: garnacha wine blended with port, 22 percent strength in its sweet version, and for over a century you could drink it nowhere else, per Bodegas del Uruguay. Gardel, Piazzolla, Troilo, and Pugliese all took theirs at this bar. The rest of the list covers Uruguayan wine, grappamiel, and simple cocktails; nobody comes for a Negroni.

Tango travelers and cruise visitors fill show nights; off nights stay local and unhurried. The room shifts when the music starts, usually after 9pm, and the dance floor takes over from the tables.

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