Organ

· Iconic Organ in Nishiogikubo is the natural-wine room that anchors the western reaches of the Tokyo wine scene and is, by some distance, worth the train. The list is one of the most thoughtful natural-wine programmes outside Paris, the kitchen runs a serious vegetable-led menu, and the room is small enough that the buyer-chef can walk you through individual bottles.

The bar is busy, the regulars are loyal, and the prices are unusually fair for the cellar quality. It ranks eighth for being the bar that proved Tokyo wine drinking did not need to be concentrated in the central wards, and for sustaining a programme that any of Europe's better natural-wine cities would happily claim.

For the full ranking, see our editorial round-up of the 10 best wine bars in Tokyo, the broader Tokyo wine bars guide, and our category index of wine bars worldwide.