Vinosity

· Modern Vinosity in Aoyama is the bar Tokyo's sommelier community drinks at on its night off. The list runs to over four hundred references, the by-the-glass programme is built around an unusually sophisticated Coravin rotation, and the staff are among the most technically credentialled in Japan.

The food is small, sharp and built to be eaten between glasses rather than as a meal. It ranks sixth because no other Tokyo wine bar runs a Coravin programme this seriously — older Burgundy, classed-growth Bordeaux, German riesling with twenty years on it, all available as a 75ml pour without committing to a bottle. For drinkers who want to taste rather than drink, it remains the most useful room in the city.

For the full ranking, see our editorial round-up of the 10 best wine bars in Tokyo, the broader Tokyo wine bars guide, and our category index of wine bars worldwide.