Editorial

Bar-Hopping Guide: Amsterdam's Jordaan

The Jordaan is Amsterdam at its most compressed. Narrow canal houses, bicycles against every railing, and a brown cafe on what feels like every other corner. This district west of the Prinsengracht was working-class for three centuries before it became one of the city's most sought-after addresses, and the bars carry that history in their tobacco-stained ceilings and worn wooden bars. The brown cafe, or bruin cafe, is the local institution: a living room with beer taps, dark from age rather than design.

This guide keeps to six of them, walked as a route from north to south along the main canals, roughly 1.3 kilometres end to end. We have cut the cocktail bars that older guides file under "the Jordaan" but that actually sit across the water in the canal belt, because a Jordaan crawl should be a Jordaan crawl. What is left is the real thing: historic cafes, jenever, Dutch beer, and the occasional burst of live volkszang.

How we chose them

Every stop below is a verified, currently open cafe with a documented Jordaan or Jordaan-edge address, checked against its own listing and its profile in our Amsterdam guide. We ordered them geographically for a walkable route rather than by preference, though the brown cafes at the heart of the list are the ones locals send you to first. One stop, Cafe Nol, has no bar profile on our site yet, so it appears here without a link.

  1. 01

    Cafe Papeneiland

    Start at the north corner, Prinsengracht 2, where a cafe has stood since 1642. Delft-tiled walls, a wood stove, and a spot on the Brouwersgracht corner that is among the most photographed in the city. Order a jenever and an apple pie the cafe has sold for generations, and take the water view before the route turns inland.

  2. 02

    De Twee Zwaantjes

    A short walk south to Prinsengracht 114 and the Jordaan's most unapologetic sing-along cafe. On weekend nights the accordion comes out and the room joins in on Dutch standards, loud and unironic. It is small, it is a scene rather than a quiet drink, and that is exactly the point. Go early to get a seat before the music starts.

  3. 03

    Cafe Nol

    Cut west to Westerstraat 109 for the neon-lit interior that regulars treat as a shrine. Red everywhere, lace curtains, chandeliers, and traditional volkszangers who turn a Friday into a Jordaan folk night, per its I amsterdam listing. Opens at 8pm, closes at 3am or later. It has no profile on our site yet, so we send you with the address and a warning that it only comes alive after dark.

  4. 04

    Cafe Chris

    Round to Bloemstraat 42, the oldest bar in the Jordaan, pouring since 1624. The room is worn in the right way, the crowd mixes locals and the few visitors who found it, and the beer is straightforward and cheap by Amsterdam standards. This is the anchor of the whole district, the one every other cafe here is measured against.

  5. 05

    Cafe 't Smalle

    South again to Egelantiersgracht 12, arguably the prettiest brown cafe in the city. The building traces back to 1786 as a jenever distillery tasting room, and the canalside terrace is the most sought-after handful of tables in the Jordaan on a mild evening. Come for the light on the water in the late afternoon, not the packed weekend crush.

  6. 06

    't Arendsnest

    End just across the Brouwersgracht at Herengracht 90, technically a step out of the Jordaan but the natural nightcap. The list is all-Dutch: dozens of taps and bottles from breweries across the Netherlands and nothing else. Ask the bar to steer you toward something you cannot get at home. It is the one stop on this route that takes beer as seriously as the old cafes take atmosphere.

Practical notes for the route

The Jordaan is walkable end to end, and from Cafe Papeneiland in the north to 't Arendsnest is about 20 minutes of actual walking, plus the pauses. The neighbourhood is busiest from 7pm to midnight on weeknights and from 6pm on weekends. Cycling is the obvious local alternative, but cycling and bar-hopping do not mix here; the city takes both its bikes and its road safety seriously. Walk.

For the wider picture, our full Amsterdam bar guide covers De Pijp, Oost, and the Noord ferry scene, and the hidden gem bars of Amsterdam page maps the cafes beyond the Jordaan that locals guard. Our best bars in Amsterdam editorial gives the current consensus picks across every district.

Our verdict

If you only have time for two, make them Cafe Chris for the history and 't Smalle for the canalside terrace. The Jordaan's appeal is not any single bar but the density: nowhere else in Amsterdam packs this many genuine old cafes into a walk this short. Take it slowly, sit where the locals sit, and let the route set its own pace.

This guide is maintained by Sofia Reeves, who covers Europe's bar scene for barsforKings. Last updated December 2025.

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