Editorial
The Scotland vs Ireland bars question is one that drinkers have been arguing about since the first ferry crossed the Irish Sea. I have strong opinions on this topic and I am going to give them to you directly. Dublin's pub culture is the most celebrated drinking experience in the British Isles. Edinburgh's whisky bar scene is the most seriously under-appreciated. Both cities reward extended visits. One of them rewards your next trip more.
Edinburgh makes the legitimate claim to being the world's whisky capital. The city has 80 specialist whisky bars, a concentration that does not exist anywhere else on earth, including in the Highlands. What the travel press consistently underestimates is how good the broader cocktail scene has become. The bars in the New Town and Leith have developed a sophistication that puts Edinburgh ahead of most European cities its size.
Dublin's pub culture is the original template. The city has been producing great pub experiences since the 18th century, and the best of them are still operating in rooms that predate the American republic. What surprises visitors who know Dublin only through reputation is how good the craft beer and cocktail scenes have become alongside the traditional pub culture. The two exist side by side without conflict.
If you have never been to either city, go to Dublin first. The pub culture is the original, the pints are exceptional, and the city is warm in a way that Edinburgh, for all its qualities, is not quite. But if you are a serious whisky drinker, Edinburgh is the more rewarding destination. The concentration of great whisky bars within walking distance of each other does not exist anywhere else on earth.
Practical advice for both: drink at the pace of the city you are in. Dublin rewards a long afternoon in one pub. Edinburgh rewards an evening that moves between three or four very different establishments. Fighting either city's natural rhythm produces a worse experience than accepting it.
Tom is barsforKings' craft beer and whisky editor. He has a particular attachment to Edinburgh's whisky bar scene and has drunk his way through more than 200 of Dublin's pubs over 15 years of visits. He is aware this sounds excessive and does not apologise for it.