Lisbon

Six hidden bars worth your evening in Lisbon

A working shortlist of the rooms Lisboetas know about and visitors mostly miss. The 1840 ginjinha shop, the 1972 literary bar, the 1979 cocktail room, the 1986 museum-bar, and two newer rooms that have earned their place beside them. Updated quarterly, kept short on purpose.

  1. No. 01

    Toca da Raposa

    Príncipe Real · $$$

    Constança Cordeiro and Carlos Anaia's argument that Portuguese ingredients are enough. Cocktails built around aguardentes, verjuice, sumac and Bairrada vinegars. The menu changes four times a year.

  2. No. 02

    Foxtrot

    Príncipe Real · $$$

    A Príncipe Real cocktail bar that has not changed since 1979. Ring the brass bell, sit on a velvet banquette, order the Foxtrot Martini. Two drinks is the visit.

  3. No. 03

    Pavilhão Chinês

    Príncipe Real · $$

    Five interconnected rooms on Rua Dom Pedro V, every wall covered with antique display cabinets. The Aviation is correct, the digestivi from across the former Portuguese empire are the better order.

  4. No. 04

    Procópio

    Príncipe Real · $$

    Behind an iron gate off Rua do Século. Open since 1972. Original art-nouveau interior, literary patronage, vermouth and port-tonica. The Lisbon bar most lifelong residents have walked past without noticing.

  5. No. 05

    Pensão Amor

    Cais do Sodré · $$

    Former 19th-century brothel on Rua do Alecrim. The Madeira programme is the reason to come; the curved marble bar in the front room is the right place to start. Visit before 10pm.

  6. No. 06

    A Ginjinha

    Rossio · $

    Lisbon's original cherry-liqueur stand. Since 1840. €1.50 a glass, standing room only, three minutes is the entire visit. The shop all other ginjinha shops in the city are quoting back to.

So the six below are not arranged by cocktail-bar conventions. They start with the most ambitious modern room (Toca da Raposa), move through a 1979 cocktail-bar institution (Foxtrot), the Príncipe Real museum-bar (Pavilhão Chinês), the 1972 hidden literary bar (Procópio), the Cais do Sodré former-brothel room (Pensão Amor), and finish at A Ginjinha - the 1840 doorway-shop that is, more than any of the others, the bar Lisbon has been recommending the longest.

Visit them in any order. None of them require reservations except for weekends at Toca da Raposa. All are within a fifteen-minute walk of each other except A Ginjinha, which is in Rossio - a twenty-minute walk downhill from Príncipe Real. Plan it as one evening, two if you want to do them properly.

A working editorial ranking. Numbers are guidance, not gospel. Read the notes and pick the room that fits your evening.

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