Cafe Colette

Cafe Colette holds the corner of Berry Street and North Ninth in Williamsburg. Owner Zeb Stewart, who is also behind Hotel Delmano and Union Pool, built it as an all-day New American room with a full bar and a covered greenhouse garden in back. It opens at 9am on weekdays and runs cocktails and seasonal plates through dinner.

This is a date room and a slow-brunch room more than a late-night bar. It suits couples who want a drink and a plate in the garden, and groups who book ahead for dinner. It works less well for anyone after a loud, fast scene, since the energy stays warm rather than rowdy.

The kitchen leans on free-range, antibiotic-free, organic sourcing, with techniques borrowed from Spain, Italy, and Central America. The bar follows the seasons rather than a fixed list.

The front is a corner room with big windows and a marble-topped bar. The draw is the back: a covered greenhouse garden that softens the light and turns a weeknight drink into something quieter. The same team's design fingerprints, the warm wood and low glow of Hotel Delmano, carry over here.

The bar runs seasonal cocktails from $15, a natural-leaning wine list, and local beer. Order whatever the bar is building around the current season and pair it with a small plate in the garden. Brunch brings the standards done with the same sourcing care, so the morning cocktails hold up next to the plates rather than playing second fiddle.