Compagnie des

wine · Hush The Compagnie's NoLita room is the New York sister of the Paris original on Rue de Seine, and it is the rare transatlantic transplant that does not feel like a franchise.

The list is mostly French and Italian, the room is dim and small enough that volume self-regulates, and the by-the-glass programme is unusually generous for a wine bar this serious — eighteen references on a typical night, including older vintages that almost nobody else in the city is willing to open for single pours. It ranks third because the programme has matured into something the Paris room itself now occasionally looks to, which is a rare reversal for an imported concept.

For the full ranking, see our editorial round-up of the 10 best wine bars in New-York, the broader New-York wine bars guide, and our category index of wine bars worldwide.