Jaja

· Modern Jaja is the Neukölln natural-wine room that locals stopped pretending was a secret around 2020, when the Weichselstrasse address became the de facto canteen for the city's wine trade on its own time.

The list is wider than Otto Rink's and looser — Italian, Slovenian and Czech producers pour alongside the German core, and the by-the-glass list is rewritten on a chalkboard daily by chef-owner Léon Lebourg, who trained at Saison in Paris and brought a small French kitchen back with him. Ranks third because the format is more democratic than the rooms above and the room is louder than serious tasting really wants, but on a Thursday night it is the most fun room on the list.

For the full ranking, see our editorial round-up of the 10 best wine bars in Berlin, the broader Berlin wine bars guide, and our category index of wine bars worldwide.