Otto

· Modern Otto Rink opened on Kollwitzstrasse in 2018 and quickly became the room Berlin uses to argue that German natural wine has moved past the apologetic phase. Owner-sommelier Friederike Engels stocks Enderle und Moll, 2Naturkinder, Brand Bros and the Pfalz cohort by the glass at prices that hover around eight euros, with a kitchen that produces sausage-and-sauerkraut plates that aim to provoke the wine rather than to soothe it.

The room is narrow, candlelit, and runs with the unfussy efficiency of a Lisbon tasca rather than a Berlin wine bar. Ranks second because the by-the-glass rotation is the deepest German-natural programme in the country and the room makes the case without preaching.

For the full ranking, see our editorial round-up of the 10 best wine bars in Berlin, the broader Berlin wine bars guide, and our category index of wine bars worldwide.