Black Pearl Príncipe

+ plates · Modern Black Pearl is the Príncipe Real wine bar that helped reposition the neighbourhood as Lisbon's serious drinking quarter — opened in 2018 on Rua da Escola Politécnica, run by sommelier Joana Ricou with a programme that goes wider than the Portuguese-only rooms by including Loire chenin, Mosel riesling and a small but considered Etna section.

The kitchen is short and modern, and the by-the-glass rotation is the most international of the top five, while still anchoring on Portuguese producers. Ranks fifth because the international detour gives the cellar genuine versatility and the room is the closest Lisbon has to a Paris-style natural-leaning bar à vins.

For the full ranking, see our editorial round-up of the 10 best wine bars in Lisbon, the broader Lisbon wine bars guide, and our category index of wine bars worldwide.