Taberna da Rua das

· Wine + plates Taberna da Rua das Flores is André Magalhães's Chiado room that has run on hand-written daily menus since 2009 and built one of Lisbon's most stubbornly opinionated by-the-glass programmes along the way. The list is short — usually eight references — and rotates daily based on what arrived from producers Magalhães has been buying from for fifteen years.

Bookings are not taken, the queues are real, and the kitchen makes the city's best octopus rice. Ranks seventh because the format is intentionally tight and the access friction is high, but no other Chiado room expresses chef-as-buyer this honestly.

For the full ranking, see our editorial round-up of the 10 best wine bars in Lisbon, the broader Lisbon wine bars guide, and our category index of wine bars worldwide.