Editorial
The best hidden gem bars in Bangkok operate in a city where "hidden" can mean many things: up a staircase with no sign, through the back of a noodle shop, inside a building the city's taxi drivers pretend not to know. Bangkok's cocktail scene has developed rapidly in the last decade, and the most interesting results have been in neighbourhood bars that serve locals first and reward visitors who bother to find them. This is where we send people.
Bangkok's hidden gem bars concentrate in pockets rather than districts. The Old City around Khao San Road's edges, the Bang Rak riverfront neighbourhood, and the streets around Silom that sit away from the main corridor, these areas have accumulated the bars that operate without tourist infrastructure and set their own terms.
Teens of Thailand sits behind a heavy wooden door on Soi Nana, the Chinatown lane that turned scruffy shophouses into Bangkok's best bar strip. The house pours gin, much of it steeped with Thai botanicals, and the room stays loud and unfussy. Order the kaffir lime gin and tonic, arrive before 9pm to beat the door queue, and pay a fraction of what Sukhumvit charges.
Tropic City does tiki without the kitsch, a dark Charoen Krung room stacked with rum and run by a crew that takes the category seriously. Asia's 50 Best Bars has flagged it more than once. The drinks lean strong and tropical rather than sweet and silly. Order a daiquiri to test the bartender, go early before the Bang Rak crowd fills the place, and bring cash.
Maggie Choo's hides in a former bank vault under Silom, all chandeliers, silk and a stage that runs cabaret and jazz most nights. It is theatrical, the sort of styling that usually signals a tourist trap, but the room earns it. The Sunday drag brunch is the talked-about slot. Order a classic and a snack, arrive by 9pm for a banquette, and treat it as a full evening.
The bars on Sukhumvit itself are mostly aimed at the expat circuit and the hotel crowd. The ones worth finding are a few streets east, in the Ekkamai and Thonglor neighbourhoods where Bangkok's young professional class has been building a drinking culture that looks nothing like the tourist belt.
Rabbit Hole hides behind an unmarked wooden front on Thonglor, three floors of marble, exposed brick and serious cocktails. It has ranked inside Asia's 50 Best Bars, and the menu changes often enough to reward a return. The drinks run 350 to 450 baht, fair for the quality. Order whatever the bartender is proud of that month, and go on a weeknight to dodge the Thonglor crush.
WTF pairs a ground-floor bar with a gallery upstairs, a Thonglor fixture that has poured stiff drinks and hung local art since 2010. The crowd is arty, the talk runs political, and nobody is posing for the camera. Order a Spanish-leaning cocktail or a glass of natural wine, come on an opening night for the buzz, and stay for the conversation rather than the spectacle.
Ba Hao means number eight, the address of this red-lit Chinese bar on Soi Nana in Chinatown. The cocktails build on old apothecary ingredients, herbal liquors and five-spice, and the top-floor room looks over Yaowarat's rooftops. Order the Opium, a ginseng-spiked Negroni Time Out singles out, pair it with the spicy duck wontons, and climb to the roof seats. Worth the walk through Chinatown's lanes.
Bangkok does not close. The city's late-night bar culture is one of its defining features, and the best hidden gems operate at their most interesting after midnight when the tourist bars have peaked and the locals take over. These final picks are the ones we return to specifically for the late-night crowd.
Smalls is the Sathorn late-house everyone ends up in, a faded three-floor townhouse with a jazz room, a rooftop and a kitchen that runs past midnight. It is shabby in the right way, not the styled kind. Order an absinthe drink or whatever the band suggests, arrive after 11pm when it finds its feet, and do not expect to leave early.
Bangkok rewards the visitor who plans specifically for the bars. Teens of Thailand and Ba Hao are the essential stops for anyone interested in how Thai ingredients translate into cocktail forms, neither has an international equivalent. Maggie Choo's is worth a full evening on its own. Tropic City is the pick if you want something theatrical done well.
For late nights, Smalls is the single best option in the city after midnight. The Ari neighbourhood is worth an evening if you want to drink with Bangkokians rather than tourists. Take a taxi to Ari BTS station and walk from there.
Tom Callahan writes about pubs, value and late nights for barsforKings, with a soft spot for any bar that pours an honest measure and skips the styling. He keeps one eye on the match and a close watch on the bill.